"Ajanta - Ellora", these two names were quite enough to pump lots of adrenaline inside us and just after two days, we were on our way to Bangalore City Railway Station. In the mean time, so many things had to be done - train booking, hotel booking - OMG ! The plan was to get down at Daund and then catch a bus to Aurangabad. We had consecutive holidays because of Diwali and this time our destination was Aurangabad, Ajanta, Ellora.
The Feluda film - Kailashey Kelenkari , had already ignited the fire to see these magnificent archaeological sites. The film's story was based on illegal trading in ancient sculptures from Ellora. And now, we will see those in our own eyes - quite unbelievable !
As we got down at Daund, the auto fellow dropped us to a place which no way looked like a bus stop or station at any angle. I was quite worried if we at all get any bus there - It was 2 PM and there was no one other than us. Anyway, after waiting for around 20 anxious minutes, a bus came and stopped there. On asking, the ticket checker confirmed that "yes", it is indeed going to Aurangabad - a great relief.
Reached Aurangabad by evening and we booked a car for next day's plan . We had booked the MTDC Aurangabad through net.
1st. Day - Daulatabad fort, Khuldabad, Ellora Caves, Bibi Ka Maqbara, Panchakki (water mill).
Started at 6:30 from the MTDC resort, had a heavy breakfast and then we reached Daulatabad fort. It was quite early in the morning and we were the only visitors.
Daulatabad is a 14th-century fort city in Maharashtra, about 16 kilometers northwest of Aurangabad. The place, was once as known as Devagiri, circa the sixth century AD, when it was an important uplands city along caravan routes and is now but a village, based around the former city of the same name.
Starting 1327, it famously remained the capital of Tughlaq dynasty, under Muhammad bin Tughluq (r. 1325-1351), who also changed its name, and forcibly moved the entire population of Delhi here, for two years, before it was abandoned due to lack of water.
The area of the city includes the hill-fortress of Daulatabad. It stands on a conical hill, about 200 meters high. Much of the lower slopes of the hill has been cut away by Yadava dynasty rulers to leave 50 meter vertical sides to improve defenses. The fort is a place of extraordinary strength. The only means of access to the summit is by a narrow bridge, with passage for not more than two people abreast, and a long gallery, excavated in the rock, which has for the most part a very gradual upward slope. About midway along this gallery, the access gallery has steep stairs, the top of which is covered by a grating destined in time of war to form the hearth of a huge fire kept burning by the garrison above. At the summit, and at intervals on the slope, are specimens of massive old cannon facing out over the surrounding countryside. Also at the mid way, there is a cave entrance meant to confuse the enemies. (courtesy, Wikipedia).
It is one of the magnificent fort in India and single visit is never enough to explore it completely. One must visit this marvelous example of engineering excellency.
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Main entrance of the fort
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| The displayed canons inside the fort |
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The watch tower, just after the 2nd. gate
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Chand Minar
Chand Minar : Sultan Al-ud-din Bahamani constructed this minar in memory of his victory over Gujarat, in 1435A.D. The minar is plain and simple from outside. It is constructed by stone and decorated with colored tiles, which are still found on the wall. This minar has four floors having spiral stairs inside. Small windows are provided at regular intervals for light and air ventilation. For every floor there are 80 steps and 6 small windows. Every floor is provided with circular chajja. There is a mosque on the one side of the minar.
I wonder, why is this minar colored in orange ?
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| Another view of Chand Minar |
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| Kalakot, 3rd inner wall |
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The Chini Mahal, where Aurangzeb had imprisoned Abul Hasan Tana Shah - the last Sultan of Golkunda
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| 22 meter deep moat, that separates the main fort from others. |
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| Entrance to Andheri - the dark passage. |
Dark Passage (Andheri) - The only entrance to the main fort is through a devious tunnel, which in times of siege was rendered un-passable. This sub-terrain passage is indeed mysterious and in spite of several individuals’ attempts, all its mysteries are not known. The long ascending tunnel rises rapidly and tortuously by flight of steps, which are uneven in width and height, difficult for climbs in the absence of light. The labyrinth arrangements and the darkness allow the enemy army to kill themselves. A long tunnel containing numerous chambers cut out of the solid rock, were used in the olden times as guards rooms and store houses. The turns and twists opens out on a rough window, now covered with grills, originally was a trap set for enemy intruders, which ended in the ditch. The tunnel was un-passable when the great obstacles come in the form of darkness, inlaid iron spins, barrier of smokes and splash of hot oil and water from above.
Even today, guides take tourist inside the passage with fire torch and while demonstrating, they put that torch off, so that tourists can experience the darkness inside the passage - it is pitch dark and without the guide's help there are full chance that one may get lost inside.
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At the end of the dark passage, Andheri
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The moat, as seen from the Andheri.
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| View from the top |
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| Ram cannon |
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| Ram cannon |
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| Maintenance work is going on |
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| Spikes at the gate are still there to fascinate tourists. |
We could not finish the fort completely, but we have to move on - our next stop was Khuldabad. This is a small town just besides the Daulatabad Fort and famous for the tomb of Mughal emperor, Aurangzeb. This tomb is completely different from other Mughal emperors tombs - without a large mausoleum, instead he was interred in an open air grave in accordance with his Islamic principles. The resting place of this Mughal emperor is remarkably simple, in keeping with Aurangzeb's own wishes. The grave is covered with white cloth with the middle of it kept open for flowers.
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| Aurangzeb's tomb |
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| Aurangzeb's tomb |
Our next stop was Ellora Caves - One of the star attractions of this tour.
Ellora is famous for its rock-cut sculptures. It has, total 34 caves - first 12 caves are Buddhist, next 17 caves (13 to 29) are Hindus and remaining 5 are Jain caves. These caves were built between the 5th century and 10th century. All these 34 "caves" are actually structures excavated out of the vertical face of the Charanandri hills.
Cave no. 16 which is also known as Kailasha Temple, is the center of attraction at Ellora. The entire temple is carved out of a single rock and most astonishing fact is, carving had started from the top and then the workers continued to the bottom. It is very difficult to complete all the 34 caves in a single day. Since, we have one extra day, we decided to see "only" the most famous caves today, starting with number 16.
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| Entrance of Kailasha Temple, Cave no. 16 |
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| Kailasha Temple - Cave no. 16 |
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| Kailasha Temple - Cave no. 16 |
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| Kailasha Temple - Cave no. 16 |
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| Kailasha Temple - Cave no. 16 |
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| Kailasha Temple - Cave no. 16 |
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| Kailasha Temple - Cave no. 16 |
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| Kailasha Temple - Cave no. 16 |
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| Kailasha Temple - Cave no. 16 |
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| Kailasha Temple - Cave no. 16 |
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| Towards cave number 1.. |
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Cave no. 1 - which is actually a monk cell.
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| Cave number 15 |
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| Cave number - 32 |
Cave number 32 is a Jain cave and is known as “Indra Sabha”. This cave is dated to 10th century A.D. In front of the main hall of the ground floor, there is a courtyard consists of a small "Mandapa", a "Manstambha" and an elephant statue like cave 16.
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| Cave number 32 |
We were pretty tired and hungry and was fanatically looking for food. Our cab driver took to us to the adjacent Hotel Kailash - it was very expensive and the food was not worth for it.
Our next destination was Bibi Ka Maqbara which is 30 Kilometer from Ellora and it was inside the Aurangabad city. This was build by the 6th. Mughal Emperor, Aurangzeb in the memory of his first wife Dilras Banu Begum. This monument has a striking resemblance to the famous Taj Mahal and as a result this is also known as Dakkhani Taj (Taj of the Deccan), popularly also known as "Mini Taj Mahal". We reached there around 4 PM and beautiful golden evening light was falling on the monument.
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| Bibi Ka Maqbara |
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| Bibi Ka Maqbara |
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| Inside the Bibi Ka Maqbara |
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| Bibi Ka Maqbara |
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| Backyard of Bibi Ka Maqbara |
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Evening light at Bibi Ka Maqbara
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| Bibi Ka Maqbara |
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| Bibi Ka Maqbara |
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| Bibi Ka Maqbara |
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| End of day |
Our next destination was Panichakki also known as the water mill. This monument located inside the Aurangabad city. It was designed to generate energy via water brought down from a spring on a mountain.
Dating back to the 17th century, this ingenious water mill was designed to use the energy generated by flowing water from a nearby spring to turn the large grinding stones of the flour mill. This water mill was used to grind grain for the pilgrims and disciples of saints as well as for the troops of the garrison. This is a perfect example of the skilled ancient scientific thought process.
In Panchakki, additionally, there is the actual burial place of the Sufi Humor Shah Musafir, who had been considered to happen to be the actual religious coach associated with Aurangzeb
It was almost evening and we were dam tired. We finished Panichakki quite fast and then retired for the day. Next day was planned for Ajanta.
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| A diagram explain how the Panichakki works |
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| Panichakki |
2nd. Day - Ajanta Caves
